Notes & Observations
Skiers and Travelers, Don't Miss This Fresh Cardrona Ski Guide from New Zealand
Translated from the original Chinese essay · Read the Chinese original →
Last week I went skiing in New Zealand. This annual ski trip during the kids' school holidays has now been going for ten years.
For the first four years, the kids were still young, so we went to the relatively close Mount Baw Baw. For the next five years, we went to Falls Creek. Yes, we even managed to go during the gap between Melbourne's two lockdowns during the pandemic.
This year, we decided early on to take a trip to New Zealand to scout it out.
I just got back to Melbourne from New Zealand yesterday, and I want to share this trip.
Let's start with the most unforgettable part.
Every day at the top of Cardrona, looking at the sea of clouds in the valley, watching them roll and drift, gazing at the vast open snow-covered mountains, all I could do was quietly take off my gloves and photograph the scene again and again.
This wasn't my first time skiing, but this time it really felt different.
No driving or renting a car, no staying on the mountain, no frantic itinerary. We took a very relaxed approach and experienced winter in the Southern Hemisphere in a different way.
From ski rental to the mountain shuttle, from accommodation choice to the Skyline Luge and the bonus experience of cats sleeping with us, this trip to Cardrona made me realize:
Skiing is not just about sliding; it's a process of getting your body moving, slowing your mind down, and bringing people closer together.
This guide is not a chronological account. It's a summary of my own New Zealand ski experience, written from the perspective of someone who didn't drive.
Cardrona Alpine Resort: The Top Choice for Scenery Lovers and Experience Seekers
This time I chose one of the most highly regarded ski fields on the South Island: Cardrona Alpine Resort. If you like modern facilities, well-designed runs, and great photo opportunities, this option has almost no downsides.
Compared to nearby Treble Cone, Cardrona is more suitable for beginner and intermediate skiers. You don't need to tackle terrifying steep slopes to feel the thrill of gliding through snow.
And the scenery is truly stunning.
The sea of clouds flows slowly through the valley, combined with the high-altitude light and snow line. Standing at the top watching the sky change color, I suddenly found a sense of sacredness in the snow.
Because I chose Cardrona and needed to go up and down the mountain every day (there is almost no accommodation on the mountain at Cardrona), I deliberately chose to stay in the town of Wanaka. After all, a 30 to 40 minute bus ride is acceptable.
When I first chose Wanaka, it was really just because it was close to the snow. My ignorance of this town made me prepare for hardship, but I was pleasantly surprised (more on that below 😄).
Departing from Melbourne, You Can Arrive at the Ski Field Gracefully Without Renting a Car
We flew directly from Melbourne to Queenstown, then went on to Wanaka, without renting a car the whole way. The experience was actually more relaxing, and the most important reason is that I really didn't dare to drive on the mountain roads.
Let me get straight to the cost-effective option. For the round trip between Queenstown and Wanaka, I recommend booking directly with Wanaka Transfers on their website (https://wanakatransfers.co.nz/). The price is NZ$195. Booking one day in advance is usually fine. Unfortunately, I was lazy at the time and took a taxi from Queenstown to Wanaka. The meter was ticking so fast it broke my heart.
A key factor in being able to ski freely without a car was choosing the right hotel. We specifically picked one that was a stop on the shuttle bus route.
Staying at a Cat Hotel by the Lake: Club Wyndham Wanaka
We chose Club Wyndham Wanaka. Although it's not in the town center, the hotel entrance is right at a Cardrona Shuttle Bus stop.
It's also only a ten-minute walk to the 'lonely tree' by the lake. Actually, I didn't know about this tree before (one of my ignorances). The taxi driver specifically introduced it to us. Later, when I checked Xiaohongshu, it really is famous.
Wanaka is surrounded by mountains and water, the town is peaceful, and even the clouds seem to be sleeping soundly. The air seems to be written with the words "slow down, slow down a little more." It's another place that makes you want to retire on the spot. So, I looked up the house prices in Wanaka. 😱 The median price is even higher than Melbourne. Well, I guess I can only afford to visit.
Because our hotel didn't have cooking facilities, when it was time to find dinner, I opened Google Reviews and discovered a lot of great food. During our days in Wanaka, we really didn't have a single bad meal, except for one Italian restaurant we missed because we didn't make a reservation. Everything else we ate was quite good. Even the tiramisu at our hotel was called by my kid the best she's ever had.
Also, Uber doesn't work in Wanaka town; you need to download a taxi app. But Uber Eats is available, though with very few options. Some restaurants offer delivery if you order through their website.
The most special surprise was the two cats kept by the hotel. The ragdoll cat is named Darwin, and the other one is Tobby. One night, Darwin actually came to our room and stayed with us for more than two hours.
The meaning of travel is sometimes really just these unexpected little things.
Full Ski Field Experience: Every Step from Shuttle to Locker Is Replicable
We booked everything ski-related in advance on the Cardrona official website:
- Shuttle Bus
- Ski rental (including boots, skis, poles, helmet, etc.)
- Lift Pass
- Snowboard lessons for the kids, a three-day package that included their equipment
The website supports a Chinese page, and you can even book Chinese-speaking instructors and lessons (so there really are a lot of Chinese tourists 😄).
Before going up the mountain, I thought the 30 to 40 minute trip would be a bit long, but it was actually a pleasant surprise. The scenery on the flat road was beautiful all the way, and on the mountain road it was steep and dramatic, with the sunrise turning the peaks golden and passing through the sea of clouds. On the first day, I was truly stunned by the beauty.
Using the QR code in the booking email, you can get your ski field pass from a self-service machine (the lesson, lift pass, and rental information are all included). Then you can go directly to pick up your rental equipment.
I especially recommend renting an Overnight Locker to store your skis and boots (the boots have a special drying feature), saving you from carrying them every day. Actually, carrying them isn't too bad either; the shuttle bus has enough space.
There are quite a few places to eat lunch. The simple meals are relatively quick, and the Noodle Bar on the second floor is really good. The food is made fresh, with an Asian flavor, which suited us well. And the floor-to-ceiling windows with snow views are very healing.
New Zealand has powder snow, and it really feels great to ski on. Cardrona's green runs are so friendly for a beginner like me—wide and gentle. (Of course, Australia's snow was also good this year, but unfortunately I didn't have time to go.)
Cardrona also has a very large terrain park, where skilled skiers and snowboarders often do all kinds of tricks, and it's right next to the green runs, so beginners like us can enjoy watching.
Bonus: Small Happy Moments in Queenstown
After three days of skiing, we decided that since we were already here, we might as well spend a few days in Queenstown. Our two days in Queenstown were not wasted at all.
We stayed at DoubleTree by Hilton Queenstown. Although it's only a four-star hotel, you can use the Hilton Resort facilities, including the pool, sauna, and spa. At $20 per person per day, it's worth the price. We actually learned about this from a mother from Auckland on the shuttle bus on our first day. See, even without planning, information comes to you.
Although the hotel is ten kilometers from the city center, you can take a water taxi to the center in just 20 minutes. This experience is much better than a regular taxi—after all, there's no traffic jam on the water. Remember to buy a Bee Card at the Hilton front desk ($5 per card, and it's very thoughtful—multiple people can share one card). With the Bee Card, the water taxi costs only $10 per person.
Three things in Queenstown that are especially great:
1. Skyline Gondola + Luge: Fun for Adults and Kids Alike
We had previously done the Skyline Luge in Singapore back in 2019, and my kid has been talking about it ever since. This time in Queenstown, we naturally continued our Luge KPI, and it was really fun and addictive. To get to the Luge, you first take the Gondola, and the views from this newly built cable car are also unbeatable.
2. Fergburger: A Burger with Over 20,000 Reviews
It was the first time I had ever seen a Google Review count of over 20,000. The queue at this burger place was insane. It's open from 7 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. (crazy). It's hard to say when the queue is short—probably... not during meal times.
I recommend going at off-peak times, otherwise you'll wait at least an hour.
The taste is indeed good, but a 4.6 rating feels a bit overrated.
3. Trail Walk near Hilton: Every Few Steps Feels Like a Promotional Video
On the morning of our last day, we didn't plan any activities. We just slowly walked along the lake from the hotel, chatting, looking at the scenery, and looking at houses 😁. Well, the house prices in Queenstown are also beyond my reach.
But that morning by the lake became one of the most peaceful moments of my trip.
Epilogue: Love Skiing, Love Yourself
This ski trip, we seriously skied for three days, had several good meals, and watched the clouds move and the mountains stand still several times.
In New Zealand, there is no "the benevolent love the mountains, the wise love the waters," because you are right there between the mountains and the waters.
Perhaps what truly moves people about travel is not how "rich" it is, but when you let go of plans and control, at that moment you become soft, free, and real.
Let me love skiing, and love myself.
As for the cost, "expensive!"
As for shopping, "no idea!"
As for New Zealand, "I deeply felt my own ignorance. I used to think New Zealand might just be a smaller version of Australia, but in reality, New Zealand's beauty is purer gold and strikes straight to the heart. I need to catch up on New Zealand's history!"
I can't wait to visit New Zealand again.